If space is limited, or you don't have a garden, it is perfectly feasible to grow fruit trees in pots for the patio. Though the situation is very different with respect to trees in soil, trees in pots can crop successfully.

Like Bonsai trees, fruit trees will adapt to the room available. We specialise in fruit trees of all shapes and sizes: we can provide the consultancy to successfully grow a tree in a pot.

If necessary, we can do the entire job for you. We can help you in the choice of the right tree variety and rootstock, deliver the tree(s) to your door, together with the right size and sort of pots or containers, plant the tree in the pot, and place it where you want it.

Another useful tree pattern in situations of limited space is the espalier.

Espalier training: information and tips

The espalier is a useful method of training fruit trees, and it is becoming increasingly popular in the garden because it is ideal for positions adjacent to a wall or a fence, and occupies a minimum space. It can also be used as an attractive separation or screen between different parts of a garden.

In the espalier system, the tree comprises a central stem and horizontal fruiting branches. It is very important to train the tree correctly in order to achieve a tree that produces good fruit on all the horizontal branches for the next 20 years or so. The points set out below are the fundamental principles that should be followed to achieve that objective.

Do not train the branches - bringing them down to a near horizontal position - until the sap in the tree is running vigorously. This means that training can be performed from around mid-May.

In the first year of training, you will form the first tier of the espalier, and therefore you will create a tree with three branches: the two side branches, and the upward leading branch. In mid-May, tie the two lower side branches to an angle of about 60 degrees (from the horizontal). At this stage, you can remove all other competing branches from the tree, so that growth will be concentrated in the three branches you need.

Wait until the second week of August, and only then, lower the two side branches to the horizontal. This delay in timing is very important. If you lower the branches to the horizontal position too early in the growing season, the upright vertical leading branch will absorb all the nutrients and the first tier of the espalier will be too weak in future years.

During the last week of August, remove all surplus upright growth from the espalier frame work. Then cut a notch in the upright branch above the first horizontal tier, at a height corresponding to where you would like the next tier to be formed the following year. This is usually about 18 inches above the first tier. The depth of the notch should be about a third of the thickness of the upright branch. It stimulates the tree to produce branches at exactly that point.

The following year, build the next layer of the espalier, following the same routine as the previous year.

The tree should be fertilized with a tree feed such as “Growmore”, following the instructions on the package. Spread the product evenly over an area of 3 square feet around the trunk .

During the growing season (May-October), keep the area under the tree canopy free from weeds, and from grass in particular.

Only prune in the winter once the tree is in full production and therefore is in need of spur replacement.

A common mistake, and one that can have serious consequences, is forcing the tree to grow upwards too quickly, without giving enough time to properly establish the lower limbs of the espalier. The most useful espalier which requires least maintenance in later years, is a tree in which the diameter of the lower arms are of double thickness compared to the top arms of the espalier. Good quality fruit is then produced at all levels of the espalier, and not just on the top layer.

This can be achieved by means of skilful pruning, bearing in mind that shoots in an upright position always grow more strongly than more horizontal ones.

We can supply apple varieties suitable for espaliered trees. The varieties available for planting next autumn are:
James Grieve, Lord Lambourne, Greensleeves, Laxton Fortune, Ashmead Kernel, Peasgood Nonsuch, Rubinette, Egremont Russet, Blenheim Orange, Red Pippin and many others.

Fan Training for Morello Cherries, Plums, Peaches, Nectarines and Apricots.

Stone fruit trees – those mentioned in the title – are often more suited to fan training than espalier or open bush patterns. This to a degree depends on the vigour of the trees and the place where they are going to be planted.

The fan is really a variation on the espalier, except that instead of being held horizontally, branches are trained into a flat fan shape, with two main branches growing outwards at 45°. This angle makes it easier to control growth, when compared with the espalier. In addition, over a number of years the number of branches in the fan can reach from 8 to 10, ensuring good light penetration into the tree structure.

If the tree you are using is a one-year old tree, cut it back to 15 inches above soil level. This should be done in February/March. Remember to seal the pruning cuts with a sealing compound to prevent infection by the spores carrying various tree diseases.
In early June, select two strong growing shoots, close to the tip of the tree, and tie them to canes set at an angle of 45 degrees. Remove all other shoots. Always use bio-degradable tying materials, to prevent the risk of the ties growing in and strangling the two selected branches. As the two branches develop further during the growing season, tie them again along the upper part of the bamboo canes.

If the two trained branches have grown well, in the following February, cut both branches back to twelve inches from the point where they started to grow last February. This will provide in total 10 buds, which we will now use to develop the main frame of the fan shape. New shoots will start to grow from these buds. Select four shoots on each side of the fan and tie them again on bamboo canes set out in such a way that they fill the fan space over the 180-degree arching area available. However, leave the centre of the fan unoccupied, in order to maintain good growth in the basic framework.

Once this has been successfully completed, cropping will follow, mainly on one year-old wood. Once that wood has carried a crop, it needs to be cut out to make room for the new one year-old wood. The best time to do this is not during the winter months, but immediately after the crop has been picked. If any sub laterals develop, cut them back to 3 to 4 inches, if there is room available.